Text & Photos: Pan Banana
On the last day in Hiroshima, I had the opportunity to experience a Japanese pleasure of “hunting autumn”: Momijigari! In Canada or the United States, people wander to every corner for leaf beeping when the leaves are turning a golden rust color. Japanese people enjoy Momijigariin fall as much as they do when Hanami season (cherry blossom) comes in spring. What good luck if you visit Hiroshima during late fall and early winter days. You will be amazed at the velvet carpets made by Ginkgo and assorted Maple leaves. The view feels like a fairy tale.
Derived from the Japanese word Ginkyo, which means “silver apricot”, Ginkgo is considered as the link between the past and the present, the god and the people. Little did anyone know, Ginkgo is the most ancient variety, which existed in the era of the dinosaurs: the Jurassic period 213 million years ago. It’s also the only plant which remained alive after the atomic bomb in Hiroshima during World War II. Ginkgo leaves are adored by many people because of their unique propeller shape with beautiful veins radiating out into the leaves blade. From the Edo period (1600 – 1867), people had Ginkgo as salads served with vinegar. One of the best locations for autumn hunting is Miyajima Island, where Maple and Ginkgo leaves are lying around the shrine and all over the space near Hiroshima. Happiness is simply lying down on that assorted silky carpet of leaves on a chilled day.
Waiting for a flight at Hiroshima airport, I accidentally wandered into Shukkeien park – one of the oldest parks in Japan. The red Maple leaves surrounded me every time the wind blew. From far away, I could see some couples hand-in-hand slowly walking through Shukkeien. Under this glorious autumn maple blaze, everything has a tender sense of grace and beauty.
Yet, Momijigari season in Hiroshima is still incomplete when you haven’t tasted Momiji Manju. Momiji Manju literally means “the cake of autumn”. Don’t forget to pamper yourself with steaming newly-baked Momiji Manju; especially when you are on the Miyajima Island, which is well-known for its plethora of autumn cakes. There are multiple choices of fillings such as red beans, white beans, matcha, cream cheese, or chocolate… My favorite is the very traditional red bean flavor – the original version of Momiji Manju from the Meiji period.
Many people believed that Momiji Manju was first handmade by Takatsu Tsunesuke, a baker from Hiroshima. At the time, the first Prime Minister ItōHirobumi often paid a visit to the sacred Miyajima Island. One time by chance he saw the beautiful hands of a girl; he exclaimed that her hands were as beautiful as the maple leaves over here. Inspired by his saying, this girl asked Takatsu Tsunesuke–the baker to create a cake bearing the maple leaf. Since then the fall cake was born. And almost everyone falls for it, as a friend once said “A balanced diet is Momiji Manju cakes in both hands!”
Pan Banana - The contemporary food, arts and cultures journal 